Summer Shorts 74: Drink & Think Venice, a Conversation Passport.

Venice. On numerous visits over twenty four years, since my feet first found wings on the ground in the city, I’ve made it my pleasure to shape my own course as an anonymous wanderer, even if somewhat informed by carefully selected editions from the mountain of guidebooks pumped out incessantly every year. I have very few favourites of course. The rest of what I want to learn and experience in Venice comes from my own library of history, art and other story books.   

While it may sound like an over-exaggeration to say that there are infinite ways to discover or rediscover Venice, it is a truism for me as long as my fascination will allow. For there are often sublime reasons why so many individuals, true lovers of the city who live there, or those who devotedly return, never run out of impressions of the city to share, whether you are sat by a canal or, long after you have gone, on your own sofa with eyes closed letting reminiscences flow.    

Fortunately for me while on my recent visit to Venice I was able to purchase this so described “travel monograph” directly from Robin Saikia early enough in my stay so as to use it and enjoy it as much as possible while on my long daily strolls. As it happens that same first evening with book in hand, at Robin’s fitting suggestion, I found myself with friends in Chapter 1 – Trattoria San Basilio. A small, cozy restaurant, quiet at the time, we were greeted with a warm welcome.

As we continued through dinner we gradually led into a delightful conversation with the family trio – Stephano, Roberto and Matteo, and as recommended we went with a bottle of the Casavecia Tai white wine. There and then it came to me that I would not forget this evening if I asked for the delightful trio to autograph their own chapter – special, as it is this monograph opener. Though Stephano had to say his farewell earlier, at least Roberto and Matteo did happily sign.

That night after dinner down at the Zattere, I read through all the book’s chapters with their drink and think stories. A few days later I found myself in Chapter 8 – Osteria da Filo in the neighbourhood of Santa Croce where I was staying, near Campo San Giacomo dall’Orio. Here Robin tells of his affection for the church in that campo which began in his childhood. With that, my second visit to the church the next day truly made the story told in da Filo more impressionable.

On a quiet non-live music evening at da Filo, which allowed for a proper drink and think, a few prosecco went along naturally with the flow. Once again I introduced the book to the staff for autographs which led to a wonderful conversation with Federico, who lives and works in Venice. What a relaxed opportunity to meet someone who views the city differently from an insider’s perspective, and as it happens the same pattern continued for two more chapters.

Taking a seat outside by the column of St. Theodore on the corner in Piazzetta San Marco on a sunny, breezy day, it was Chapter 10 – Al Todaro. As Saikia says, this provided me “views in all directions”, all as I reread the histories he succinctly shares about Napoleon and Morosini, and of all people, Pope John XXIII who had his morning coffee here when he was Patriarch of Venice. After a chat and autograph, my cheerful waiter Andrea now knows the papal angle to the story.

Lastly, my visit to Chapter 21 – Enoteca Al Volto, a long lasting sentimental end to my stay, with a few rounds of Valpolicella and cicchetti to warm up inside on an rainy early evening. On staff was Andres who was thrilled about Al Volto being in the book. After our discussion on wine and life in Venice came his autograph and an all too soon farewell.

Not that I need to concoct a reason to return to this resplendent city, but reminiscing now on all the people I met, the food, the drink, the stories in the book and the strolling through the neighbourhoods, I realize there are 22 more chapters to visit – and Drink & Think Venice will be for me really, a conversation passport.